By Karen Pinchin

On a typical tour of Poland, most people sip rich beet soup, take in the horrors of Auschwitz and tip back homebrewed vodkas in hundred-year-old basement bars. But those tourists are missing out on some of the best parts of Poland. After a three-week tour off the beaten path, Newsweek’s Karen Pinchin has some tips on divining the country’s best-kept secrets.