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  • Correspondents' Picks: Swansea, Wales

    Newsweek | Oct 14, 2008 02:34 PM

    By Elisa Mala

    Poet Dylan Thomas referred to his birthplace as an "ugly, lovely town," but with centuries of history showcased alongside cutting-edge architecture, this fishing village and resort town (called Abertawe in Welsh) is as picturesque as its English name suggests. On her first visit to Wales, NEWSWEEK’S Elisa Mala was charmed by the quaintness of the surroundings as well as the warmth of the locals who occupied them.

    STROLL along the Mumbles, a walkway along Swansea Bay that passes through local shops, eateries and piers. In warmer months, the Swansea Bay Rider, a land-based train that’s kid- and adult-friendly, rolls along the path at a leisurely pace. The rides end as soon as September does, but they return for one night only on the eve of Halloween!

    LEARN about the town's storied past and view the mummy Hor at the Swansea Museum, which displays many regional artifacts. Or partake of futuristic multimedia exhibits at the National Waterfront Museum, which pays homage to the country's nautical history. Its balcony offers a panoramic and unparalleled view of the adjacent marina.

    INDULGE in concoctions like Tuscan Cassata and Strawberry Cookies and Cream at Joe's Ice Cream Parlour, a mainstay since 1922. Or try over 30 flavors of gelato and non-fussy Italian dishes at Verdi's Café. For seaside views that are as fresh as the fare, try to snag a table on the pier.

    EXPLORE the intricacies of the well-preserved Oystermouth Castle, which was built in the 12th century and served as a residence for the reigning lords. Despite several sieges, remains of the nearby Swansea Castle are surprisingly intact.

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  • Correspondents' Picks: Toulouse, France

    Newsweek | Oct 1, 2008 12:10 PM

    By Amber Haq

    Nestled in the sunny southwest of France, Toulouse sits astride the Garonne River and the 17th century Canal du Midi, midway between the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. The country's fourth-largest city, it is young and vibrant, home to three main universities and the European aerospace industry. It's a haven of creativity, and combines the Gallic charm of its rich history with the Latin warmth of its geography. Dubbed "La Ville Rose" (or "Pink City") for the dust-colored stones so prominent in its architecture, Toulouse is a city that will appeal to epicureans, who should savor its many delights slowly and by foot – for walking is a way of life here.

    STROLL: Try the banks of the Garonne River for stunning views of Toulouse's historic monuments. Perhaps the most impressive of these is the 11th-century St. Sernin basilica. Allegedly the largest Romanesque church in Europe, it was consecrated in 1096 and features an eight-tier octagonal tower, five church naves and an upper cloister which forms a passageway around the impressive interior. The crypt contains relics of 128 saints, plus a thorn said to be from the Crown of Thorns – you'll have to ask the custodian permission to enter.

    VIEW: Exquisite art is on display at the Fondation Bemberg, a private collection opened in 1995 and one of the city's most important museums. It offers an overview of five centuries of European art ranging from the Renaissance to the French Modern School. Paintings by Pierre Bonnard, Matisse, Pissarro and Monet grace the rooms of the 16th century Hôtel d'Azzézat which houses the collection. Contemporary art lovers should visit Les Abattoirs on the city's right bank – Toulouse's hippest crowds gather in this museum of modern and contemporary art, which once housed the municipal abattoir dating from 1831. The collection exhibits over 2,000 works by artists including Brassaï, Dubuffet and Picasso.
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  • Correspondents' Picks: Oxford, England

    William Underhill | May 5, 2008 05:57 PM

    William Underhill, a correspondent in the London office of Newsweek, first came to Oxford to study in the 1970s and returned as a resident in 2006. He now works as a correspondent in the London office of NEWSWEEK.

    Sights: Oxford is a hybrid: part modern industrial centre - BMW has a plant on the outskirts - part venerable academic community, and its finest architectural treasures can be hard to find. Many are hidden behind the walls of the 35 colleges that together make up the university. (Watch out: mean-spirited commercialism dictates that many colleges now charge for admission). My own favourites aren’t the biggest or the best-known. For the quintessence of creeper-clad old Oxford try the quadrangles of Oriel College or its neighbour, tiny Corpus Christi. If the colleges stale, it’s only a short walk to the Pitt Rivers Museum, an astonishingly mixed assortment of ethnographical curiosities displayed with a fine disregard for modern museum styles.

    Drinks:With more than ten thousand thirsty students to please, Oxford has pubs for all tastes, from the richly quaint to rowdy late-night watering holes. Guide books rightly steer tourists towards The Bear – plenty of dark panelling and low ceilings – in Bear Lane, but for a quiet pint in modest surroundings take a ten-minute hike north of the city center to Gardeners’ Arms in Plantation Road. The beers – the selection changes regularly – are among the best in town and so too is the vegetarian menu.

    Stroll: One look at a map shows that downtown Oxford is rich in green spaces. For absolute peace head for the university’s under-visited Botanic Gardens, the oldest in Britain. Nowhere quite matches the hothouses for comfort in the chill of an Oxford winter. For one more tourist-free excursion, take a stroll in the University Parks, a vast expanse of greenery on the edge of the main university district and fringed by the extravagantly Gothic mansions of the city’s Victorian suburbs.

    Festivities: Avoid the city at all costs early on May Morning – the first of the month - the best known of the university’s festivals when a choir gathers on the top of the chapel tower at Magdalen College to greet the start of summer. Okay, the occasion is steeped in authentic tradition but the singing is inaudible and the crush of drink-sodden students intense. A better spectacle is the annual Eights Weeks rowing contest late in the summer term when the college crews compete for the title of Head of the River on the Thames. Forget the idea of conventional side-by-side races: the object is to bump the boat in front. For the record the “week” is only four days long and the river is known to the university as the Isis, not the Thames. Call it tradition, call it affectation: it’s Oxford.

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  • Correspondents' Picks: Poland

    Newsweek | Apr 8, 2008 05:03 PM

    By Karen Pinchin

    On a typical tour of Poland, most people sip rich beet soup, take in the horrors of Auschwitz and tip back homebrewed vodkas in hundred-year-old basement bars. But those tourists are missing out on some of the best parts of Poland. After a three-week tour off the beaten path, Newsweek’s Karen Pinchin has some tips on divining the country’s best-kept secrets.

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  • Globalization's First Outpost

    Christopher Werth | Mar 1, 2008 02:23 PM

    The historic Dutch capital of Amsterdam still retains its Old World grandeur. Here's how to maximize your visit to one of Europe's most walkable cities.

    The Dutch know citymaking. Their historic capital, Amsterdam, is a product of 17th-century merchant capitalism, widely considered to be the first age of globalization, and its structure was heavily influenced by Europe's trade with the wider world. The concentric ring of canals that make up the old city are extensions of the routes that led to China, India, and the southern tip of Africa. Mokum (the Yiddish nickname for the city) has managed to remain accessible even as it has modernized. An efficient tram system links peripheral neighborhoods to the core around Central Station, and because of its relatively small size, it is one of the most walkable capitals in Europe.

    Touring: A beguiling warren of narrow lanes, canals, and tiny bridges, Amsterdam is perfect for a meandering stroll. For the complete tour, choose from two options: bicycle or boat. Almost everyone rides a bike in Amsterdam, and renting one is easy. The city is as cycling-friendly as they come, with a network of designated lanes and parking, and the old prewar-style bicycles that dominate the lanes will take you back to another time. Mac Bike can put you in the saddle at any one of their numerous locations.

    The Netherlands' capital is a watery place, nestled well below sea level, and touring by water provides a great way to view the rows of 17th-century canal-side homes and warehouses. Forgo the cumbersome cruise-boat tours that crowd the major waterways and take a more pleasant, personalized journey through the backwaters. The St. Nicolaas Boat Club is a little-known gem that offers daily tours on their small fleet of quaint, authentically Dutch canal boats. Bring a picnic and a bottle of wine, and see one of the most beautiful European cities from its most unique vantage point. For the pleasure, your ship captain will accept donations at the end of your voyage, and tours can be arranged only by visiting Boom Chicago, a comedy club and bar in the Leidseplein square.

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  • Holiday in Holland

    Kristin Luna | Jan 9, 2008 12:51 PM

    In the past few years, intrepid travel writer Kristin Luna has ping-ponged all over the globe. Here, she rehashes some of her favorite facets of life in Holland:

    Eats: The Netherlands isn't known for its gourmet cuisine--the Dutch dining philosophy is to deep-fry everything and serve with fries, hold the salad--but thankfully the country offers every international cuisine under the sun (an ambler might find Ethiopian, Argentinean and Moroccan establishments all within a 100-foot stretch). With an Arabic population of more than 1 million, some of the best fare is North African and Middle Eastern: it's cheap and easy and rarely disappoints. My daily lunch staples were Turkish pizzas or falafel from any of the ubiquitous, colorful dives that dot Utrecht. For one of the tastiest alternatives in town, stop by the Surinamese stand in the middle of Neude Square and order the roti kip, a pita stuffed with chicken, potatoes and green beans (tofu options are available, as well). If you're set on trying the regional fare, grab a cone of thick Flemish fries from any vendor. They're not significantly different from "freedom fries," but served with mayonnaise in lieu of ketchup.

    Biking: The Dutch bike everywhere: grocery stores, shopping malls and even the bars. If you're staying in one place for a considerable amount of time, you might consider buying a second-hand set of wheels to help you get around. It's great exercise and more reliable than the country's public transit. The Utrecht police station holds an auction once a month where you can purchase a used bicycle for as little as five or 10 euros (check the tourist office in Neude Square for details upon arrival); at any time, you can find "bicycle black market" vendors near the train stations. Buy the loudest, crummiest one possible, as bike theft is a common occurrence. Or consider renting one for the day at any sporting-good store (watch for signs boasting "fiets," the Dutch word for bike).

    Drinks: You needn't look further than Utrecht's main canal, Oudegracht, and its myriad drinking institutions to whet your appetite for quality European brews.

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